Civil War Cage Crinoline

While I already own a hoopskirt, it's made as a petticoat with sewn-in channels. It's very similar to this cage crinoline at the MET. All the fabric (in addition to the steel) is surprisingly heavy. It's from the popular Simplicity pattern, but it's too long and is constantly scraping the ground. I could fix that, but it's also very large and not really designed for day-wear. I decided I'd like a new set of hoops, and wanted to try making a cage crinoline, like this one at the Victoria & Albert museum:
I purchased a fairly straight forward kit from Originals By Kay, and was able to put it together in an afternoon with my husband's help (I really don't like having to use the bolt cutters to cut the hoop wire). My dress dummy was a lot of help. It seems like period crinolines had many more hoops than modern reproductions, but our hoop steel is very different than what they had available during the civil war.The hoops are 108 inches in circumference, and are not an exact bell shape since they are ever-so-slightly larger in the back. That way my skirts will be more voluminous in the back. I would definitely recommend Kay's kit for convenience and ease of construction. There wasn't enough tape in the kit for me to make my waistband, but I have enough ribbon/tape lying around that it wasn't a problem. I admit I'm curious about the Truly Victorian hoop pattern since it includes a bag hem (you're less likely to put a foot through a hoop). Has anyone tried out the two different hoop styles?

I have a petticoat that will work with these hoops, though I know I should really make a new pair that:

A) Fits better
B) Has a flounce
C) Is neither too short nor too long

Completed Civil War Corset

Here's a finished shot of me in my new Civil War corset. It'll do the job so I can move forward with my Gettysburg dress, but it's a bit too small...I can't even post the back shot because I'm a bit embarrassed by the fit. In hindsight, I definitely should size up Simplicity 7215. It was my favorite corset, and I hope to fit back into it someday.

Finished Corset

Here it is! I finished another Victorian corset. Why you ask? Well, I tell myself because I wanted a prettier corset that had gussets to make a nicer fit for a curvy person such as myself, but the truth is: cause I wanted to!!! I finished up all the little details, right down to nit-picky embroidered 'x's on the outside. I think it really does make a nice profile with less of a shelf look that my other corset. However, my other corset is ten times easier to get into!

Satin Victorian Corset

While I wait to find out how to trim my Robe Francaise without the pinking raveling, I decided to start another project I had purchased supplies for. I always loved my victorian corset. You can see a great picture of it in my archives. But when I heard that Simplicity had come out with a more advanced corset pattern, I knew right away I had to give it a try. Unlike my practical white cotton coutil corset, this one will be made out of peach satin coutil.

One reason I really like this pattern is that it includes bust and hip gussets, and creates a more 'hour-glass' shape when it's finished. Here you can see I've hand sewn in the gussets. Since the gusset sizes are determined by your bra cup size, I think the finished corset will also fit better.

I started the corset yesterday and really got into a sewing mood. Today, I was able to finish sewing in the lining...

...and set in the eyelets and busk. The eyelets took a long time, about four hours (the only reason I know is I sat through two movies to finish them). My hands are pretty blistered after working with the grommet setter. None of the boning channels have been sewn in yet, but the garmet itself is pretty much assembled.

Bell Shape!

After finishing the chemise, bloomers, and corset, I moved onto the hoops and petticoat. Again, the pattern was fairly simple. I think the most difficult part was just getting used to working with so much fabric. There are literally yards and yards of fabric (about eight if I recall correctly...). Using my vanishing pen to transfer the pattern markings for the hoops was also no picnic, but it turned out quite nicely. I again used the popular Simplicity patterns and highly recommend them.

A good foundation...

My first project that I wanted to complete was a Victorian day dress. I saw the very popular Simplicity civil war day dress, and wanted to make it. To start with, I needed to make the undergarments to support the gown. Since this was technically my first sewing project, I thought I'd better start with a simple project - I chose to make a chemise (it's what I'm wearing underneath the corset above) and then move on to the corset. I was pleasantly surprised at how easily the corset went together, and it was actually one of the easier projects I've done to date. The hardest part was putting in the grommets in the back - I had blisters for days!