Still Working!

Hey all,

I don't want you to think I've stopped sewing again all of the sudden. I had to take my sewing machine in to be serviced...it was really overdue. It's supposed to take 'several weeks,' but that's not holding me back! That just means more time to cut out patterns.

First up is a Halloween costume for Calypso. I know, I know, it's waaaay too cutsie and something I thought I would never be doing, but I just couldn't resist the urge. Plus, all the neighborhood puppies are getting costumes (seriously), so I just had to get in on that action.

Here's the costume I'm going to make:
It's already cut out, so I'm just waiting for the return of the sewing machine to sew it up (It's one of those super easy, will probably take me an hour or two projects).

Next, I'm going to cut out the cape that I would like to sell on eBay, and then I need to cut out my new side hoops. I have an event in September (movie release of The Duchess) and in November (a historical ball) that I need the side hoops for. Then, I need to cut out the back rump pad pattern that I purchased from Wingeo patterns. I'm taking a Robe Anglaise course in Williamsburg in November, and I'll need a rump pad instead of side hoops for the later 18th century sillouette.

This weekend is VERY exciting: I'm going down to Williamsburg for an 18th Century Stays workshop. By the end I should a complete, or almost complete, set of new stays that have been properly fitted for me (one of my new friends from the Tuesday night costumer club has very generously agreed to bring her second sewing machine for me to borrow). Wohoo!! I should have pictures for you next week.

Williamsburg Tailorshop

I've been holding off on this post for a few days because I wanted to have my completed Chemise a la Reine featured for a few days. As always, my favorite stop in Williamsburg is the Tailor's shop. There's always so much to look at, and the displays change. Check out the full side hoops hanging on display in the store!There was also a pair of Stays (I recognize the JP Ryan pattern) and a small set of pocket hoops (the red plaid hanging on the rope). They were so small, I wondered if they were maybe for a child, but I didn't get the chance to ask. In the background, you can see a white Robe a la Francaise muslin example on display.
I got really excited when I spotted the Calash hat (it's green and red in the upper corner). These hats were very large and were wired so it would stand tall and accommodate the hairstyles of the day.
There was a beautiful silk waistcoat in progress that was on display. I didn't get the best photo, but I just love this picture of the projects the tailor is working on, and the bolts of fabric in the background.Here, the tailor is sitting cross-legged on top of a table in his store window. This was apparently the preferred way for tailors to work. It was comfortable, gave them room to spread out their project, gave them the best natural lighting, and displayed their work to the passing public. I loved the men's silk dressing robe he was working on (I think these are called banyon's). They were introduced as trade with the orient became more common, and were acceptable casual clothing.

I could be mistaken, but I believe the gentleman is the tailor who will be teaching the 18th century stays workshop that I will be attending in September through Burnley and Trowbridge.

New Toys

My trip to India and Christmas have helped build up my sewing supplies a bit, and I'm off and running again!! Here are a few of my new toys:
Swedish interfacing. I think it's better described as sewable tracing paper. Basically, I trace my pattern piece, cut out the tracing paper, and sew up the tracing paper to test the fit of the garment. If it doesn't fit, I haven't cut out my pattern (once you cut it you can't change the sizes very easily) so I just trace a different size and start again. Here you can see me using the Swedish interfacing pieces to cut out the fabric (which had earlier been sewn together to test the fit and then taken apart).
Meet my evil twin: Mini. This is a Uniquely You fitting form. I've borrowed the picture from the Uniquely You website instead of mine due to vanity issues...that, and I haven't fitted mine yet. It's made out of squishy foam and comes with a cover that zips over the foam. You fit the cover tightly to your body shape, and then zip it over the foam to create a duplicate of your body shape. The great thing about this dress form is that it squishes...so I can lace up a corset over the form and get the right shape/measurements.

The only problem with the fitting form is that the cover needs to be fitted: once the cover is fitted, it squeezes the foam into your shape. Unfortunately the reason I need a fitting double is because I can't fit things on myself. Which is why I ordered a fitting double. Which I now can't use because it has to be fitted. Harrumph. I will probably need to call in my highly trained fitting expert on this one (aka Mom).

Indian Sari

While not technically a costume, and definitely not 'historical', I got out a sari project this weekend.

This all began after watching "Bride and Prejudice." If you haven't seen it, you really should. It's by the same director as "Bend it Like Beckham," and is another story about westerners encountering India. It's based of off Pride and Prejudice, and was great! I got a kick out of the Indian Ballywood-style dance/song scenes, including songs like "take them to love" and "thank you for getting this marriage into town."
Anyway, the Indian-themed weekend made me want to play dress-up, and I remembered that my dad had brought me back a sari from one of his trips, and it was buried at the bottom of my fabric box. I got it out, roll hemmed the raw edges (see below), and then learned to put it on.
I don't have a matching choli (top) or petticoat, but it was fun to get out and play with!

18 century accessories

Hi all. While I wait to find a better solution to my raveling pinking for the 18th century gown, I continue to look for accessories to make the outfit complete. I saw this silk and ivory fan on ebay for a steal (really Dave, I promise), and just couldn't resist. It has some less-than-period feathers on the tip of the fan, but it looks gorgeous. Plus it's the from 19th century, so it's a little peice of history. It's nice and big too, which was the style in the 18th century. This fan is 11 inches long when closed. Not a tiny little hand fan.

My Very Own “Coin ­à Coudre”

…Also known as my brand new sewing room. As everyone knows, my husband and I moved to Poland this winter, and now that our household shipment has arrived, we’ve finally been settling into our apartment.

To my husband’s chagrin, and to the detriment of our storage space, I have claimed a walk-in closet as my own! Here are pictures of my little sewing space.

I have actually already been sewing on my Simplicity summer suit in the room (more to come on that…fitting issues have been frustrating), and it’s pretty comfortable. I have plenty of room to store my hoops, past projects, and sewing notions. I probably won’t be cutting out patterns in the room, and I don’t think there would quite be room for me to get a fitting form, but it’s nice to have an entire room dedicated to my costuming!!

My Pattern Has Arrived!!

...Just in time to get packed up with the move! Too bad, huh? Well, the good news is that I got to pack up the pattern in my air freight which will hopefull get to Poland in less than three weeks. The bad news is that my undergarments, required to fit the outfit, are going slow freight, so the best you can expect to see here will be a cotton muslin in the next few months.

However, never one to be dissuaded by a move, and propelled forward by some odd sewing obsession, I WAS able to pack up a modern suit pattern wtih fabric into my air freight. Despite the fact that it isn't a costume, I think I'll put my progress on this site. Here's the pattern that will be made up in a gorgeous raw silk suiting in a dusty cream/rose weave. I got the fabric last weekend during the President's Day sale at G-street fabrics. I got everything for the outfit (lining, ribbon, fabric, zippers, etc) for $115!! I'm making view B of the pattern (the purple one) without the fringe.

Costume Journal

Well here's my first entry for the Costume room! After years of studying historical costumes, dreaming of wearing them myself, I finally decided to learn to sew and make a few for myself! What started out as a slow paced project quickly turned into a massive pass-time, with many more projects to come.

I would like to recognize the webmistress of www.demode.tweedlebop.com that was an inspiration for this website. If you haven't visited it yet...you definitely should! After months of tracking her projects, I realized I wanted something like that of my own. This blog is modest compared to demode...but it's a way to organize my thoughts. I plan to record my progress here, and post pictures of completed costumes. I hope you enjoy watching the costumes come together.

Inoui, your Seamstress.